How to train half crimp reddit. You probably don't need to train open-hand grips.

How to train half crimp reddit. I personally do half crimp but I do open hand on any pocket-y type holds. Sep 27, 2024 · Learn how to improve your crimping technique, a crucial skill for boulders. If you are not training for something specific though half crimp max hang is best for increasing general finger strength in climbing and I would definitely focus most of my time on that. It consists of the pointer, middle, and ring fingers pressing at a 90-degree angle. I can do 7 seconds of bodyweight on 7mm. I don't see it as a disadvantage anymore, maybe it's because I'm just used to holding in that position after a year + of hang boarding, but it just feels normal to me. I was climbing the same level as you when I started hangboarding last spring (2019) using beastmaker 1000. I can do 150% bodyweight on 18mm for 10 seconds. rest (not training endurance here, so prioritize recovery). Start light and slowly work up, giving yourself ideally 2 rest days after a workout. I keep hearing that half crimp is the only position you should do for one armed hangs but i'm wondering if anyone here has any experience comparing open crimp to half crimp for one arms. I have hangboarded 3 finger drag a bit in the past, but nothing too consistent. As long as you're training both of them - which aiui half crimp is supposed to do - everything else is just a matter a being comfortable & confident in different grip positions. Edge size matters in the sense that aggressive force application closer and closer to the fingertip is a distinctive skill that mixes friction/surfzce area with the muscles ability to sustain the position. If you train in full crimp, just build it up slowly. Training is for building strength and that is something you can do without crimping. Also training in a half crimp position is generally considered the most effective. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Back three is super ergonomic for me, whereas front 3 feels almost impossibly unergonomic on any edge size. I can only hang 10kg for front 3. I was half crimping at 237lbs ( about 57lbs + body weight) and 3FD at 192lbs (about 12 lbs added). (For a global reference of strength I’ll say my max grade on 2016 moonboard is V7 and can briefly hang from 6 mil edges in half crimp). Half-crimp has “the most carryover” into regular climbing. Track your weights to see your progress. You probably don't need to train open-hand grips. Whether you love or hate climbing crimps, mastering them is key. I do four holds- jugs (warmup), 2 pad open hand, 1 pad half crimp, and half pad half crimp. If you can't do it with proper form (if you're training strict half crimp that means maintaining strict half crimp), then you've failed the set. At least for me I see more carry over feom half crimp to pinching and open hand than the other way around. Dec 17, 2021 · Half-Crimp: This is the strongest hand position, as Gravelle notes in a recent interview. In my experience a lot of people when training half crimp have poor form and sort of collapse into an open grip halfway through the hang, which leads them to exaggerate their numbers. I think back 2 training can lead to a boost, if you have a weakness at your back 2. 65K subscribers Subscribed I always half crimped everything, not even full crimp (I think I've full crimped like 3 times in my life). When I've trained half crimp in the past the index was generally slightly open. Similar to how it is recommended to train half crimp instead of open crimp (to train the finger musculature with an active grip), I want to know if it would be beneficial to train full crimp without the mechanical and physical advantage of the thumb in spite of the (somewhat) lack of grip specificity. I think half crimp seems to require the most actual strength (whereas open handed relies heavily on skin friction and connective tissue strength), and so I think if you're training strength half-crimp gets you the most bang for your buck. I always knew my open hand was the strongest and my half crimp was Reddit's rock climbing training community. For very small holds you have to half crimp them to get more friction 28. I half agree, open relies a lot on friction rather than strength. All testing was done on a Tension 20mm edge for 10 seconds, with 5+ minutes of rest between hangs. Rest, and try again with proper form. If your pinky gets stronger, then you might go back to 4 finger open on most holds, but your strongest grip type probably doesn't correlate to how hard you can climb provided that you don't use it literally all the time on every single hold on every single move (b/c of injury risk, beta limitations I know that lots of threads come up on this subreddit (and google) about this topic but they seem to contradict themselves so I decided to ask the question here to clear this up once and for all. don't expect the sum Can I ask what your max is on Half Crimp? I feel like that is waaaaaay more important on certain types of holds. . I think in a 3fd your fingers, hand and wrist are pretty much alined in a straight line, not taxing the wrist. If your climbing goals never require you to use a half crimp then I see no reason to train it. i have quite a bit of time logged running a mono scheme, but I've switched to pairs recently for reasons i'll explain below. Train half crimp on a hangboard with your feet on the ground until the position begins to feel more natural. How to Train the 22mm Half-Crimp ONE ARM HANG (and actually get it) bossclimbs 9. I've been trying to research this topic but it's very hard to find anything out there about I started 7-53 hangs (half crimp) on the BM 1000 20 mm edge in August this year with only bodyweight (93 kg/ 205 lbs at 184 cm/ 6 ft). Usually lumbrical injuries almost never hurt in full crimp, rarely hurt in half crimp, and mostly hurt in open hand. You can determine your CF for any hold, e. I mostly train half crimp because I feel like it activates my forearm muscles the best, and it also feels the most natural to me. I usually end up doing mostly 29mm for front and 15mm for back 3! Also, ask yourself if you are intentionally climbing on problems with small enough holds force your fingers into a half-crimp position (or the occasional full-crimp) during your sessions. Apparently you need to train within 15 degrees of the grip type for it to translate ie half crimp hangboarding wont help much with full crimp position. totally to 3 sessions a week, maybe 4. Watch as many videos of master crimp climbers as you can and mimic their grip, which is extremely aggressive. So a closed crimp may feel more secure but (for me) my pulling power is reduced. I mostly use open drag to latch hold that are far away and pull it into half or full crimp depending on the hold. Full crimp is harder on the fingers than the half crimp, the strength of a half crimp translates well to strength in a full crimp. This could be useful if you're training for a specific route or rock formation. Hey all. Would this be the best idea, or is there a more effective solution to strengthen the lumbricals? Train 1/2 crimp. Closed Crimp: +44 lbs (31% BW). So I Even if you neglect or minimize training it on the fingerboard, you should train it on the wall, on a bar, and/or on the rings. It takes disproportionately more effort to maintain that position under the same load. Id say my grip is almost purely open hand or half crimp, most common a sort of 80% half crimp where index a a little shy of 90° and my ring and middle are about or slightly over 90°. I also have a much shorter pinky than it seems others do, In a half crimp I have to take a similar wrist position as you do in the second picture to get it on the hold. May 10, 2022 · Many climbers have been injured from over-using the full-crimp and were forced to re-train themselves to rely more on the half-crimp and open grips. The half crimp can be trained using almost any grip strength training method – hangboarding, edge lifting, board training or bouldering – although you will choose an exercise that meets your desired level of sport specificity or training precision. This should not be a compromise. Interestingly, I am waaaay stronger at back 3 than front 3. I just started doing hangboarding, I can do about 4-6secs hang one arm half crimp and about the same open with a 25mm edge and theraband assistance. I like to do max hangs half crimp when training. I’m curious how people feel about the full crimp. If you'd keep your wrist straight while crimping, it experiences a small bending moment which you need to One Arm Hangs: Half Crimp or Open? I've just ventured into the world of one armed hangs. Should I aim to hold the half crimp on bigger edges and run repeaters? It's a good strong half crimp strength stimulus without getting into some of the limiting factors on the DIP joints that you can get with the <10mm crimp edges. As an example, Aidan roberts almost exclusively trains in full crimp (without a thumb wrap), because his index and pinky finger are very similar lengths. Constantly touted as the gold standard, is it worth it to force myself to learn to half crimp? (via hangboarding and being conscious of half crimping when climbing) Half crimping doesn’t cause I do not recommend training full crimps as that will put a lot of stress on the tendons and joints. Feb 21, 2022 · When structuring your training, a good ratio is to do two or three sets of half-crimp to one set of open-hanging, unless you have a major weakness in hanging or are training for a project or crag that features pockets. My half crimp is strong. I'm rounding the corner on about a dozen no hang finger sessions and i've gathered enough bodily feedback to warrant a sharing moment. In my right dominant hand on tiny holds going into a full crimp feels like my strongest grip. I figured that as a relative beginner to finger strength training, I didn't wan to get to fancy with it - I just trained half-crimp on the Beastmaker 1000 1-pad width hold (the bottom rung). Again, this is not focused on max power gains, but rather injury prevention and overall finger health. I suck on biter crimps, like a lot of Moon Board yellows or these crimps on Fingerslut (Matt Fultz video), where it's like your fingers are actively going over, behind, and down into the lip of the crimp. And when I put my thumb over my index finger I feel like I'm going to break it. Not sure if this came about due to finger length or lack of intentional half crimping. It's theoretically enough to take two, e. It's hard to work around these grips open-handed because you end up As for actual training, pick a grip to train and stick with it. With hangboarding, for example, you can train half crimps which are safer than full crimps and engage the muscle positions used in full crimp as well as open handed. Maybe you should look into training wrist stability, if that feels like the weak link. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. If your however, is to be able to do difficult moves off of microcrimps, then hangboarding and other finger strength training becomes necessary. Half Crimp: Body Weight. A bit of background: BW=72kg MVC-7 half crimp= +40kg Stronger back-3 than front-3 half crimp. Think about “getting behind” your practice edge and pulling into your palm — “fist crimping”, so to speak. To hang on smaller holds one should train the half crimp position over time on successively smaller holds. I could hang +50% BW on open hand but could barely hang BW with half crimp, and it felt like I really had to try hard to engage the forearm muscles. To train the technique: Full crimp jugs and mini-jugs for fun when warming up, or climbing easy routes. pronated wrist - 25mm edge - half crimp - 10" - 85% Max. I've never full crimped, It feels really hard to get into never mind pull off of. When I initially started training half crimp on any edge less than 1 pad, my fingers would bend into hyperextension and I’d feel all that strain on the joints and get scared. I've been hangboarding for years now and mostly train with half-crimp and three-finger open. I take advantage of the long rest period to train lower body mobility. Half crimp is the ideal grip to train then because of this as it will improve most holds. Fortune favors prepared fingers. I can hang +15/+20 back 3 for 10 seconds. Jul 13, 2021 · So, when training on a hangboard, you’ll usually start by holding a static position, the “dead hang”, with different hand positions like full-crimp, half-crimp and open hand. This should apply to basically any exercise you do. I'm training on a 19 mm edge. If I were to comply with that strict half crimp form, with no hyperextension at the DIP joint, I can't even even hang with my full body weight. On small edges, my pointer finger collapses and straightens out which I assume is just my half crimp isn’t strong enough to hang it. Actually, I train using half crimp on larger holds with weight added. The author, Ned Feehally, full crimps on his home wall. That's cause open hand uses MCP flexion with straight fingers (even if the MCP joint is mostly straight) which is the action of the lumbricals so it's stressing the lumbrical to stabilize the hand in that position. I observed the same in myself, at least initially, and switched focus to the "pulling through the fingertip" form. If your half crimp is your weaker grip I'd say definitely train it on the hangboard, having more even numbers across grip types will likely mean less injury when you are climbing. Below you can see all my training sessions I’ve logged. Sets/reps can be flexible, but I'd recommend 2 or 3 grips - like open hand, half crimp, and 3 finger drag - and holds that are a bit too small for you to actually hang from. The general consensus seems to be (and also what for example Lattice says): almost always avoid full crimp while hangboarding unless you're a very advanced climber and train it with a purpose for a short period of time half crimp To your question, I spent several months training half-crimp, drag, and open-crimp full-crimp (in that order). ouch. 5mm a pad is pretty normal I'd say for the middle finger. In other posts and comments, especially in chat, I've argued that one-arm hangs offer a few benefits over two-arm hangs, especially for stronger climbers. But I never thought to take the same approach with three-finger drag or a more openhanded grip. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Apr 5, 2018 · training the full crimp and half crimp is fine. However, in my left hand the full crimp actually feels weaker than keeping it half crimp or open Despite climbing for 6 years, I didn't know there is a difference between the half crimp and open crimp (half is all 4 fingers at 90 degree bend, like full but without thumb, and open is middle ring at 90 but pointing finger is open hand). is debated and contested by a lot of training programs and experts/coaches AFAIK. This has worked for me. And considering the dynamic range of crimping positions and angles while climbing indoors or outdoors, having a significantly weaker half-crimp has undoubtedly influenced my climbing Ive always only done half crimp MAW hang x5 as my hang board routine, but just last week added the 3FD MAW x3 to the routine. I do not have a lot of experience with back 2 Hangboarding though so maybe I am missing out on the one secret to climbing V15. My half crimp is great. Might not work for everyone, but at one point I started to have more and more pain from full crimping everything but larger holds, supposedly because of the seemingly unnatural hyperextension on most fingers, so started to actively train using open hand and half crimp whenever possible. I don't train for the sake of training. In an index half crimp, my middle is quite a bit sharper in angle at the PIP. And also, assuming that your fingers are healthy and feeling good, you should specifically be training a half to full crimp (safely, progressively loading) on the hangboard. I start with a more aggressive crimp and let the load on the finger open my crimp to about 90 degrees for hangs and consider that a half crimp. However, ring work in addition to training open hand on a hang board can do the same thing if you don't have access to a gym that sets slopers well. The drag improved quickly, was my strongest grip overall, and transferred very well to pockets. so let's huddle up: i use this to train flexors. Personally I do not have the time/open training volume to do back 2 Training. I never really thought much of this and hung with what I initially thought was a half crimp, with the I would train mostly half crimp but might also include open hand pockets, especially if training for a climb that has lots of pockets. Pick a weight where you can finish between 5 and 7 reps for non-jug holds. g. But recent changes means my hangboard is now outdoors and very condition dependent. I think the general consensus is more weight on a bigger, comfier hold is more beneficial than moving to smaller holds where the chance of injury and skin splits are higher. What are people's results with no -hang devices like the tension block. I'm gonna train up this grip, hopefully it will improve my climbing. My open hand is wildly stronger than my half crimp but I get the feeling a lot of that is from friction on my skin vs it just being strength on crimps. I d rather prioritize half-crimp max hangs and bouldering. Usually 3 sets with good 2-3min. My open hand. Additionally, holds at gyms have evolved and we now encounter a broader range of shapes and sizes, most of which don’t really work with a full-crimp. I’ve been climbing/training for about 2 years now and I’ve been progressing nicely for someone who started over the age of 30. This took a while for me, since all my dragging made my index finger basically functionless. It’s only worse for injury / more likely because people dont spend the time building up the strength / capacity in that position. How to Climb Safely with Half crimp and Full crimp Climbing Grips It is critical to know how to be safe when using grip techniques, whether you are a first-time climber or have completed several climbs. As many have said, if a beginner even had more work capacity it's better to spend that work capacity on more climbing as opposed to hangboard or no hangs. Granted, some of the weakness was likely due to being weakened from the half crimp training, but i could My default grip, especially when trying hard at my limit, has been chisel (like half crimp, but index is opened). For instance, if someone had weak "half crimp" it would be better to just add a few crimp climbs to their progression rather than go straight to hangboard because of the factors mentioned above. Also, 20 seconds is too long to hang unless you're doing hangs to rehab an injury. It seems like most good climbers I see get more power from half crimp and full crimp. I'm thinking of training half crimp with all 4 fingers only 1/2 times a week, and the other times doing mono crimp max hangs, at the appropriate load, for the other 2/1 sessions of the week. I'd also say drop the added weight and move to smaller edges than a 25mm if you can. I can do a one arm hang on 18mm for 8 seconds. I did 3 sets of 3 finger open crimp on a 24mm edge, 3 sets of half crimp on an 18mm edge, 2 sets of middle two fingers on a 24mm edge, one set of first two fingers on an 18mm edge, and finally one set of middle two fingers on an 18mm edge. I did the hangboarding on three edge sizes and a variety of grip types. In my case, my joints are not very mobile, bending the last joint past 90 feels naturally pretty uncomfortable, so I naturally stray away from full crimping. To gain the strength: Train strict half crimps on fingerboard. I do think helpful to train all gril types though, can't remember which book it was (beastmaking?) but you have to train within 15 degrees of the joint angle you want to apply on the wall for it to translate (ie half crimp doesnt translate to full crimp etc) I think you're surprised at how much effort half crimp takes, which is also something I came across when I started training it. If you do a 3 finger drag, it's possible to have completely straight PIP joints on at least 2 of the fingers. just how it goes. But I have found that there is a difference between "just hanging" and actively trying to "pull" with my forearm muscles. For (full) crimp, the wrist is in an angle if you hang straight under your fingertips. , 80% and 45%, but it's better to know the entire spectrum. My belief now, after training the fingertip form since October, is that the "through the DIP" form is a complete waste of time and should Kind of a strange thing that doesn't quite make sense, wanted to see if any others have experienced the same thing. I realized that my half-crimp (as well as my full-crimp), while it uses the same muscles in my forearms as an open-hand, are weak in that particular position. 5 is bent in half crimp and definitely a full pad on the other fingers. How much weight are you hanging on 20mm? Has it gotten to the point where the amount of weight you need to add to achieve results is too This is kind of intuitive maybe for a half-crimp. Here's my question: would i be putting myself at a significant disadvantage in finger strength development if i just stick to my ugly open hand crimping as main grip type and diversify training with 3-finger drag/duos, or should i just go with low weight and try to train these hands for a half crimp? PS. Right now I'm training my half crimp and full crimp by low intensity I recently noticed my open-3 drag is much weaker than my half crimpabout 45 lbs weaker. Do your most intensive strength work with an openhanded grip. Because sloper strength is so complex- compared to crimp strength at least- I personally just like climbing a lot of sloper climbs to improve. Somebody who is weak open-handed might have a relatively weak FDS, which sure they could train in isolation by open-handed hangboarding. Do you fully replace using the hangboard (for max hangs) ? Does it translate well to real rock climbing? I train to perform better in real rock. I did some finger strength benchmarking to compare against in the future and found a large gap in my half crimp strength. With both arms I can do 10s on 20mm with crimp and open and 10s three finger drag on 25mm. Half crimp and/or full crimp, plus 3 finger open handed. I base my level training half crimp on the index finger position. I’ve trained half crimp and open hand crimp on a hangboard for quite some time, but I’m wondering if I need to slowly introduce 3 finger drag hangs into my regimen. If hanging your body weight is hard in the half crimp position, and you don’t want to gym just to hang, I’d suggest getting a one handed portable like a tension block (~$60 cad w/ cosmetic defect) and then you could start doing pickups It’s worth pointing out though, that if by ‘crimp’ you mean ‘be able to keep yourself on the wall with decent footholds’, then simply climbing more will do the trick. I've been indoor bouldering for about 2 months and want to start developing my finger strength. I don't think I can improve strength if I only hangboard 1/2 times a week. I'm very strong open-handed (bodyweight one-arm), but I get weaker and weaker as the attack angle of my fingers goes up. 27 votes, 32 comments. Oct 15, 2021 · In the sport of rock climbing, the half crimp grip finds the happy medium between the power of the full crimp grip and the sustainability of an open hand grip. It makes sense that it may be easier on the joint, but less force is generated due to the less favorable position on the middle finger. So, everyone knows you should do your max hang training with a half crimp position of the fingers. In regards to safety I would train half crimp as well for that pinky action, but otherwise I wouldn't worry about it. , half crimp, open crimp, slopers, pockets, pinches. If you can't deadhang in a half crimp without having your hand open up then take weight off with a pulley so you can stay in the position and train it. With some good principles applied, finger training can actually really help get rid of tendon soreness while improving crimp strength at the same time. Training on a hangboard is a very static load and environment, so if done with proper form (and adequate warm up) really it is safer than climbing where you're moving dynamically between holds. As such, this position is worth training with the greatest diligence. Hence if you want a strong full crimp, you might want to hangboard in the crimp position (no thumb as safer for index finger). If not, I would start with finding those problems that challenge your crimping power (but not too much, remember that tendons take a long time to develop). Ive seen arguments in favour of reducing weight, bringing the middle and ring to acute angles at the pip, and bringing the index to 90 at the PIP to train a super strict half crimp. I’ve been attempting to hangboard to train this. 25 is a full pad when the 28. Only do full crimps when you've mastered the technique. I have a conventional pull-up bar and was wondering whether doing finger hangs is an effective way to develop finger strength (rather than using a hangboard)? Thanks! For me an aggressive half crimp and full crimp put a lot of strain in the skin on the back of my DIP joint, so sometimes that is what hurts, not the actual joint. I'm always training half-crimp and climb mostly half-crimp with some full-crimp too. Here are my numbers: Open hand: +53lbs (38% BW). Whenever I try hangboarding half crimp my pinky finger eventually gives up and turns it into open hand. I am of the opinion that you should train in a grip position that is specific to how you grip holds on the wall, or at least your hangboard training should be specific to your goals. Probably most people agree that half crimp is more active hold position and is going to stress the muscles more. I was SHOCKED at how week it was relative to half crimp. From there I could pull it back into a half crimp or stay with a 3FD. Studies have recently shown that hangboard ing if effective at strengthening the grip within 10 degrees. I'm wondering, what is the weight differential between your half crimp and your 3-finger drag? The biggest benefit I got out of training the 3FD was kind of the opposite of what I think you’re talking about; I was often able to hit holds with the intention of half crimping, lose that grip, collapse into a 3FD, and hold on. Anyway, train the grip you want to improve on, which is still probably half crimp 80% of the time. But after some advice from a coach and wanting to break into higher grades, I got into seriously training the strict half crimp (index, middle, and ring at 90 degrees, pinky is in a drag). smaller edges put much more torque on the pulleys I would just like to chime in that Always use open crimp or switch to a bigger edge. I keep strict half-crimp form and relaxing to open grip during my sets indicates I'm too weak on that hold. The biggest benefit to training half crimp is that it is the best grip to use on some hold types. Jan 31, 2022 · Only ever training in a half crimp or openhanded position and then expecting to be able to crimp to your maximum on a project seems like madness to me. Constantly touted as the gold standard, is it worth it to force myself to learn to half crimp? (via hangboarding and being conscious of half crimping when climbing) Half crimp is a great training grip because it's mechanically disadvantaged. I've managed to hang +10kg for 7 seconds. trueGetting your pinky on a hold forces your other fingers to bend more, so a 4 finger open hand is better described as an open crimp, somewhere in between a true open hand and a half crimp. Half crimp takes more muscular effort to use. (Photo: Beastmaking Collection) GETTING TO GRIPS WITH YOUR FULL CRIMP A lot of climbers feel like they lack full crimp strength, or feel that crimping is It consists of 4 finger half crimp, front 3 half crimp, back 3 half crimp, 3 finger drag/open. just keep training half crimp. Forget half crimp - I'm weak, weak in that position. Number of Sets The number of sets you perform in a session will depend on how many exercises you do and whether you plan to do other forms of strength training in the same Feb 2, 2025 · Since the half crimp grip is more difficult, half crimp training will help develop the muscles and tendons in your fingers and wrists. If the intensity is too high, you’re either going to get tweaked or end up training half crimp, which won’t transfer. The strength of a crimp is dependent on the morphology of the hand, specifically relative lengths of the bones, and even where the attachment points of the tendons and pulleys are specifically located on the bones. vxtlts zlwgkep hskhyx mgzh wawzbliq welxxm mkgo knfi smiw nbjcw

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