Belay loop strength. Simple, adjustable and clean.

Belay loop strength. Webbing is the material that provides the strong and flexible backbone of a harness and ties together all of the weight bearing parts, including the belt, the leg loops, and the belay loop. May 17, 2022 · A belay loop must hold a 15 kN of force or more in order to be safety certified. A. We saw so many cases of the rope, carabiner, or belay loop routed incorrectly through the harness tie-in points that we were convinced that the tie-in points must be designed to maintain their strength even if used incorrectly. S) to the belay loop on your harness due to a significant reduction in strength and wear and tear to your equipment. It is also reinforced and is one of the strongest parts of a harness. We used the chain in a wide variety of scenarios, including clipping onto bolt anchors Jan 24, 2020 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The 9-mm cord is the size preferred by rescuers who use cord for a Load-Releasing Hitch. Jul 22, 2025 · Harnesses: Belay Loop. Each harness in this selection offers unique features tailored to enhance your climbing experience, whether you're a seasoned pro or just beginning your adventure. In this article, we will turn our attention to the Jan 11, 2012 · For top roping, there is nothing wrong with clipping onto a screwgate directly to your belay loop, strength wise. Harnesses that would be used as loaners to climbing partners had the lowestleg-loop strength and tied for the highest average belay-loop strength. Though Jun 5, 2024 · The PAS allows a climber to setup their rappel device on one of the PAS loops, extended away from their harness belay loop. Step 1: Feed a sling through your belay loop. Oct 10, 2016 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 6,000 lb. When I started climbing in 1973, climbers used four basic knots: the Double Clip the bight into the locking carabiner that is clipped into the harness’s belay loop (a vertically oriented, full-strength sewn loop on the front of many harnesses connecting the waist belt to the leg loops) or through the crotch strap and waist belt on harnesses without a belay loop. Pretty sure the double fisherman's bend is the best choice. KP and the QC Lab crew head to the testing room to answer your age-old question … how strong is it? Jan 17, 2014 · It is well past time to stop citing the Todd Skinner tragedy as any kind of evidence for concerns about belay loop strength. Or more simply, the belay loop connects the waist belt to the leg loops. Nov 11, 2008 · The upside of this is that it can clean up the knot. My ultimate question back to them is Why does it matter? Haul loops on harnesses are made for exactly that reason—to tag or haul a line, hence the name. Mar 28, 2025 · The ability to properly tie climbing knots is an essential skill that every climber, regardless of experience or ability, should not only learn, but master. So when people talk about a full-strength haul loop they are inadvertently referring to this standard. Cord is sold by the foot. Self-braking belay devices have an internal mechanism that will stop on the ropes during a fall. Aug 31, 2023 · Harness Webbing Though we don’t always see it, the material that makes up the bulk of the harness strength and support is the webbing. They are not strong at all compared to the belay loop itself. There are hundreds of types of knots you can use for climbing, so taking the step to learn them can be daunting. It will also feel more comfortable/less awkward when you fall on the belay loop vs the tie in points. Manufacturers prioritize the structural integrity of belay loops to withstand the stress and impacts encountered during climbing maneuvers. Strength testing a Saltoro harness belay Loop. You can use a girth hitch with a figure 8 for canyoneering. For example, you can clip a biner just about anywhere and hang from it. This article also describes some basic differences between belay carabiners, locking carabiners, and non-locking carabiners Jun 3, 2008 · Every climber must work to avoid crossloading carabiners. Aptly named, the belay loop is where you attach your belay device when belaying a climber or rappelling. Enhance your SMART BELAY system with our durable Tie-In Loop. While there is general competence with belay related skills The Spectrum harness has a quick adjust waist and leg loop buckles. While nearly every climbing manufacturer makes one; the Belay Master 2 by DMM is among the most popular of these designs A rock climbing harness has to hold a minimum of 15kN of force (~3,300 lbs of force) with the belay loop, and 10kN (or ~2,200 lbs of force) with the waist belt in order to be certified by the UIAA. This means it can handle forces roughly equivalent to 1,500kg – much more than you should be able to generate in a fall. Jul 8, 2013 · Yet you belay and abseil from the belay loop. 5kN. Photo: Elliott Natz 3. And does having only one knot lower the strength? And I'm leaving the original sewn loop on anyway. I feel belay-loop strength is still a relevant subject and wanted to bring it back to everyone's attention, especially since I still get emails from people asking me about belay loop strengths and when they should retire a harness. Taken together, the UIAA standard, the BMC recommendations, and the manufacturer’s instructions provide a Mar 15, 2016 · Introduction American climbers currently learn to belay from professional climbing instructors and guides, from formal and informal mentors, and an increasing number learn to climb in indoor/artificial climbing structures and facilities. Use your belay loop to ensure that the load is on the spine. Nov 22, 2021 · Do climbing harnesses ever fail? Likewise, harnesses that had held 20 or more falls annually broke at the leg-loop strap at 3,306 pounds, while those with fewer than 10 falls per year broke at 4,409 pounds. Of course, I don't think there is a record of someone being killed by one of these scenarios, and now - tragically - a failure of a belay loop has killed someone. It is nice that the points where the harness wears the most are reinforced and the full-strength trail line loop is easy to clip. Belay loops are burly strong. Oct 1, 2020 · Belaying is a crucial skill in climbing, as your climbing partner is literally putting their life in your hands. Its vertical orientation allows the carabiner and belay plate to move for smooth belaying. Belay loops must meet the UIAA minimum standard of 15kn. You can dress the knot appropriately to make it resemble a square knot. Simple, adjustable and clean. Apr 22, 2025 · This is the standard figure eight; leave it somewhat loose. Is the technique they are using safe? Aperture belay devices simply provide an opening for a loop of rope to pass through. The Spectrum Harness has many great features including front stabilizer straps to keep the harness tangle free, a 4,000 lb gear loop and a full strength haul loop. Aug 10, 2016 · MSRP: $39. Jan 8, 2019 · A problem that can arise when using large locking carabiners appropriate to belaying is that the carabiner can become cross loaded between the device and the harness's belay loop, reducing its strength by up to two-thirds. e. If you are only using the sling for anchor cleaning, you are fine. Lightweight and extremely packable, the redesigned Couloir is still the harness of choice for mountaineers and skiers on steep snow climbs, short rappels and technical glacier travel, and now features an updated breathable vari-width Dynex monofilament webbing construction and our innovative Infinity Belay Loop. ) Features include the locking speed buckle (never slips or loosens), four high-strength gear loops (xs has two), high-strength haul loop, full-strength belay loop and reinforced tie in points. From a safety and strength perspective, the lanyard can be attached to the belay loop or to the two tie-in points. Jul 13, 2024 · Belay loop designs vary in construction and features, with factors such as material selection, stitching techniques, and reinforcement patterns influencing their strength and durability. Anytime you retire a piece of gear, destroy it to prevent future use. g. A great harness for guiding with fully adjustable leg loops and a traditional double pass buckle, 6000 lb. Here at The Adventure Junkies, we will help you find the best belay carabiners that you can rely on while you’re focused on belaying. Jan 12, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Aperture belay devices simply provide an opening for a loop of rope to pass through. In the alpine -- especially in a crevasse rescue situation Sep 12, 2023 · This setup is worthy of its own post, but in brief, the extension helps add friction, allows for a full-strength backup off the belay loop, and allows me to go hands-free to untangle ropes or check anchors. Belay loop This loop of webbing is the focal point when belaying your climbing partner. Perfect for adventure parks. This carabiner is hot forged with a widened spine to prevent the migration of assisted braking belay devices. I learned Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. The Gatekeeper is a very easy to use belay/rappel 'biner that keeps the carabiner properly aligned on the belay loop to help prevent cross loading. These recommendations are of necessity general. Warning: You should not tie anything around the belay loop, including a daisy chain or sling. For more of our Apr 14, 2023 · You can rig a friction hitch, such as a prusik knot or autoblock, below your rappel device and attach it to your belay loop with a locking carabiner. If you begin to see this marker appearing, it means your harness should be replaced. Aug 3, 2023 · The belay loop plays a vital role in the safety and functionality of the climbing harness. Let’s assume for a second that people are wondering if the haul loop is the same strength as the belay loop (which has a CE requirement of 15kN). The belay loop is always found in the front center of the harness. John Sherman’s scare with a Dyneema sling failure on a near-static load, which led to Mammut’s test results below, also should serve as a prompt to keep your gear, and yourself, safe. But what length tails? Jan 22, 2007 · Todd Skinner’s recent death due to an old belay loop failure was a tragic reminder of the consequences of neglect. Two color choices allow you to use a separate color for each length Prusik in a Tandem Prusik Belay System. To attach your belay device to your harness, you need a locking carabiner, and some are better for the job of belaying than others. For any specific piece of equipment, the primary source for all equipment information is the manufacturer. Report on the Breaking of a Girth-Hitched Apr 19, 2022 · We ran the Metolius Safe Tech climbing harness ragged — or tried to — from long, hot bolt clipping sessions to multipitch trad outings. The tie-in points are for connecting your climbing ropes to your harness. Apr 20, 2015 · The waist belt is comfy and the belay loop is beefy and confidence-inspiring. Oct 27, 2006 · The belay loop was NOT designed for convenience. . Dec 18, 2018 · The debate between belaying or rappelling off your belay loop or tie-in points is a real one and it's a question of safety and comfort. One of the main takeaways should be to keep your belay loop free of material when you are not using it. From a safety and strength perspective, there is no risk in tying in with a figure-eight knot or a bowline knot on the belay loop instead of to the two tie-in points. rated gear loop Full-strength haul loop Quick adjust buckles throughout Standard: (44" Max), Extra Large: (56" Max) The girth hitch (Larksfoot) is used for: - Attaching slings to your belay loop - Attaching slings together. This is the whole reason for the belay loop. A helpful tutorial on carabiner strength ratings and why they are important. Oct 1, 2020 · A double loop bowline, tied through the belay loop (or tie in points). You don't need to worry about a single point of failure with the belay loop. Below I do my best to answer a few of these questions, while most likely actually posing more questions, as well as provide some super-unofficial non-complete A guide to where you should attach your belay plate. It was designed to prevent the very real problem of carabiners getting either side loaded or, more often, tri-loaded when clipped to the harness and leg loops. Still, belay loops have been known to fail, especially if they are old and worn, so always back it up to create redundancy in your chain of safety if you have any doubts about the loop's strength and integrity. Anything hard should attach to the belay loop (e. However, the lesser-known history is that of the equipment which makes returning safely from these ascents possible. Two redundant loops - for anyone who’s not too excited about rappelling off of a single loop of webbing, this is an elegant solution. Below I do my best to answer a few of these questions, while most likely actually posing more questions, as well as provide some super-unofficial non-complete Belay Loop If you're placing an autoblock on your belay loop, you have to make sure and extend your belay device when rappeling (using a sling or something like the Metolius PAS). Feature Blending Performace with Comfort The Sonic was designed to be in the middle ground of performance and comfort. May 19, 2013 · 1 Strength. Still, don’t tie yourself in knots with worry. don't use the belay loop with a rope. The Metolius All-Around lacks those attachment points but offers great security by having all of the points on the harness built to high strength, including 9kN rated gear loops. com Jun 20, 2016 · To be certified by the UIAA, the belay loop on your harness must withstand 15 kN of force (that’s over 3300 lbs) for three minutes, so it’s plenty strong. In our series on innovations in climbing equipment we have discussed belay devices, rock protection, and climbing helmets. In the event you lose control of your rappel strands, the hitch will grip the rope and stop you from rappelling further, so long as your rappel device is extended and the hitch is tied correctly. Our innovative haul loop design integrates into the main waist support webbing. Air offers a unique slot on the belay loop to keep the carabiner from moving and becoming cross loaded during use. Below are some photos of the different belay loops I tested (before they were pulled to failure) and their tested values. How to make simple but effective personal tethers for attaching your harness to a belay or rappel anchor when climbing. Always read and heed the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions for use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment. Some harnesses feature an integrated wear safety marker in the belay loop. The belay loop is the strongest point of a climbing New harness advice: Image is the user guide for my new harness, and I've been told the opposite in the past i. See full list on theclimbingguy. Though Jun 5, 2025 · In climbing systems, we rely on the strength of the belay loop, tie-in points, and waist loop. But as a matter of comfort, it is preferable to attach your lanyard to the belay loop. Two slings girth hitched to either the tie-in loops or the belay loop (don't leave it attached to the belay loop permanently; that causes uneven wear on the belay loop which can weaken it prematurely), one to each bolt, are a popular choice. The downside is that this technique may seriously weaken the knot if you use the inside of the knot as a belay loop. Apr 7, 2021 · So the belay loop is quite strong and many configurations of attaching to it are safe. S. Understanding the nuances of belay loop design is essential for THE BD EXPERIENCE Welcome to the Black Diamond Experience, an organic presentation of inspirational stories, photos and videos from our athletes, employees and partners. To your harness belay loop? Or to your 'rope loop'? We tested belay loops because there is gear fear about how safe they are after Todd Skinner's broke in 2006 during a rappel, costing him his life. Is the technique they are using safe? Jun 27, 2025 · In 2006, Todd Skinner passed away at the age of 47 as a leading big-wall free climber in a 500-foot fall in Yosemite. The belay loop is a full-strength-part of the harness, which means it is rated for any climbing related weight and force. And watch for situations where the gate to a carbiner might be compromised. The C. 3,4) Climber then unties her tie in knot and pulls the tail through the chains. One of the first QC Labs we ever did was about belay loops: QC Lab: Strength of Worn Belay Loops As far as the CE standard for harnesses go, there is no belay loop specific test, rather the belay loop is in the full harness system during testing and must withstand 15kN. I can have the link between the haul loop and master point fully tightened so I don't go anywhere. Because it's tied in a loop and does not cinch down like a girth hitch, it's fine to use this on From a safety and strength perspective, the lanyard can be attached to the belay loop or to the two tie-in points. Climbing history is rich with stories of impressive feats of strength, endurance, and determination. Find I feel belay-loop strength is still a relevant subject and wanted to bring it back to everyone's attention, especially since I still get emails from people asking me about belay loop strengths and when they should retire a harness. Apr 17, 2019 · The belay loop is extremely strong so it can withstand all the energetic forces of climbing, including severe falls. If you load the loop of the knot it is possible that it will invert, after which you will only have part of the figure-eight remaining. rated belay loop 3,000 lb. There is more than enough strength even if the krab inadvertently gets loaded sideways. P. Aug 27, 2020 · I think that in that respect the leg loop provides a high degree of safety while not being foolproof: only slightly less (arguably) than the belay loop method, which isn't foolproof either - of course, it's not 100% guaranteed to grip when hands free wherever you put it. There’s a really important nuance involved in climbing gear safety ratings From a safety and strength perspective, the lanyard can be attached to the belay loop or to the two tie-in points. I was on the big wall Todd Skinner was climbing a few days before his harness belay loop failed from excessive use so having a bomber harness is important. Extending a rappel offers a variety of advantages, mainly the ability to setup a backup that won’t fail if you were to let go of the rope on rappel. ) If you're girth hitching a tether (or adjustable daisy for aid climbing) with a wider nylon sling, either the tie in points or the belay loop should be fine. Below I do my best to answer a few of these questions, while most likely actually posing more questions, as well as provide some super-unofficial non-complete Apr 11, 2013 · This usually happens when the carabiner somehow shifts, and the gate or the spine side of the carabiner ends up crossing the rope or the belay loop where the carabiner’s strength is at its weakest. Jun 5, 2024 · The PAS allows a climber to setup their rappel device on one of the PAS loops, extended away from their harness belay loop. Carabiner gates present the most common problem. The test result of the Load at Peak came up to 26kN which is way higher than the required UIAA standards. I have considered cloving in loosely to the masterpoint at the top, running the rope under my leg to a locker cloved into my haul loop (full strength). Use it or loose it? - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. 95 BUY NOW The Mammut Belay Chain is a beefy personal tether composed of interlocking sewn loops. Some people will appreciate the other Safe-Tech features. Just tie another belay loop in (9/16" webbing) and carry on. Feb 29, 2024 · Choosing the best belay carabiner is all about the right shape and size to match your device. Why is this cool? Easy to untie after its been loaded, much more so than an overhand knot. Available in 20cm & 35cm lengths, 22kN strength, EN 566 certified. Pay attention to how the carabiner hangs off your harness while belaying or rappelling. This way, if he falls at the top, my harness takes the weight of the fall and not my sack. Feature I feel belay-loop strength is still a relevant subject and wanted to bring it back to everyone's attention, especially since I still get emails from people asking me about belay loop strengths and when they should retire a harness. The carabiner is incorrectly loaded (triaxially) when you put it through the tie in points, so use the belay loop. Discover our collection of climbing harnesses designed with a focus on belay loop strength and safety. Along with climbing guides Brian Shelton and Jim Waugh, I tested the Mammut tether on over 100 pitches at the Garden of the Gods, Shelf Road, Pikes Peak, Turkey Rocks and other central Colorado crags. If you're using a rope style lanyard such as the Petzl Connect Adjust, follow Petzl’s recommendation and girth hitch it to your belay loop. M. Please see the table below for maximum lengths available for order. Below I do my best to answer a few of these questions, while most likely actually posing more questions, as well as provide some super-unofficial non-complete Sep 10, 2015 · Belay loop: This thick webbing loop is one of the strongest parts of your harness, with a strength rating of around 15kN. If you have any doubts about the dependability of your harness, retire it and get a new one. You can do a direct belay with a self-braking belay device but not an aperture belay device. Saving on weight while maintaining strength and ease of use. Run the tail through both tie-in loops (from the top or bottom, doesn’t matter, just make sure to go through both points and NOT the belay loop), and pull the rope tail so the knot sits close to your harness. It was a locker on the gym auto-belay, just didn’t get it fully through the loop (my fault) one time and semi-closed on the loop itself causing the abrasion. Since the strength of the system is its weakest link, then why do this? (Didn't a famous climber die recently because his belay loop was worn?) If the problem is the carabiner size, why not have a specialist larger carabiner for belaying/abseiling? Nov 2, 2024 · Two belay loops give you more options with daisy chain configurations and are great for any time your harness is loaded in two directions. , a locking carabiner while belaying or rappelling). It is a great choice for programs that need an adjustable climbing harness with a belay/rappel loop. 2 knot. 5,6) After clear communication with the belayer, climber calls for a lower. The belay loop is where you attach your locking carabiner and device for belaying and abseiling. Mar 14, 2021 · The next comment is something I have seen many times and provides little to no strength redundancy but can cause some pretty big issues: Temporary or back up belay loops are just not a solution. 4 strands is 30kN or does the mechanics not work so simply. belay loop and strength rated gear and haul loops. Belay loop: This is the strongest point on the harness and the only part that is load tested. This has the advantage of not grabbing your belay loop, which might set up a friction sawing motion if you were to use the sling in an ascender system. Apr 14, 2023 · You can rig a friction hitch, such as a prusik knot or autoblock, below your rappel device and attach it to your belay loop with a locking carabiner. For example, if you are ascending a rope, you can have your top ascender attached to one belay loop and your backup knots attached to the other belay loop. Ask any gear manufacturer and they'll recommend that you always connect your belay/rappel device to your belay loop. Technically, that haul loop only needs to be able to withstand the weight of a tagline (a few Remember that weathered tree tat you were eyeing? Or how ‘bout that 20-year-old rope you found sitting in a basement completely unused? Rest assured. Over a dozen days on the harness I wouldn't expect a replacement from BD. Traditionally webbing has been made from nylon or polyester. P. Harnesses, like all climbing gear, are rated for force rather than weight because of the dynamic nature of their use. Photo: Elliott Natz 4. Be aware that it is not recommended to attach any rope/nylon equipment to the belay loop since wear and tear is much quicker through nylon on nylon friction. and metal work can go through the belay loop. The belay loop is rated at 25kN, each strand of cord is 7. Send your project and be comfortable doing it. The Black Diamond Experience is where we showcase climbing, skiing and hiking adventures from around the world, plus event news, advocacy efforts and product and technology highlights-all in one dynamic smorgasbord of stoke May 15, 2024 · See the “expert photo” section below. The loop is typically made of nylon or polyester. Tips It is not recommended to girth hitch your slings to bolts, or your personal anchor systems (P. The Infinity is for the client that just keeps going and going and…Standard: Blue belay loopX-Large: Black belay loop Feb 20, 2020 · 2) Climb a ties a figure 8 loop and clips it to her belay loop with a locker. May 17, 2022 · Belay Loop The belay loop is the circular piece of thick webbing connecting to the two hardpoints discussed above. Some harnesses, like the Metolius Safe Tech, also include rated haul loops and gear loops. Enter the belay specific locking carabiner design. We cover the options to help find the right one for you. I see people belaying with their carabiner clipped around both tie-in points on their harnesses instead of clipped to the belay loop. It might be counterintuitive, but in the case of the number of loads on your locking carabiner, less is more. (And the poster who suggested "several deaths" was, of course, unable to come up with any others. osb iul upxb jaodc onptjxzn uxtbic ftc ifpohb tdlvi wqa